I rejoined the group (Lilli did not) at a new fine-dining
establishment started by a former chef from the two-star
Essigbratlein; Wurzhaus is clearly and somewhat painfully
yearning for a star of its own, which I doubt it will get
anytime in the near future. The food was pretty good but
self-consciously fancily presented; the space is a pleasant
mixture of traditional Bavarian and chic; the wine list
interesting; and the service successfuly skirting that line
between friendly and professional, which is a rare thing.

A starter of cold vegetable soup, though undersalted,
was what you'd expect of vegan food, in a relatively
good way. I thought I detected fava beans, carrot,
tomato, and parsley stems, but I could be wrong on
any or all of these.

The tart, crisp Zillinger Gr�ner Veltliner Neuland 17
(Ebenthal, Austria) helped solve the question of how to
pair wine with vegetables - it was just a little green,
a little spicy, quite low in alcohol.

Asparagus with quail egg and chervil - the vegetable
came in five preparations, from a clear jelly to
poached, with every variation in between, only the
first and last of any note at all. The quail egg
was artificial, some kind of agar-based concoction,
but apparently at our other table some got a real
egg. Ha, ha. A local white, Zehnthof-Luckert Blauer
Silvaner 16 (Franken) was I thought not the match
made in heaven, bringing out the green of the
vegetable while adding a little citrusiness and
not much else. Zillinger would have gone better.

Wild-caught shrimp with various cauliflower preparations
- this was one (1) shrimp, butterflied, grilled in the
shell and then shelled, very good though softish and not
I think in its first youth, surrounded by a number of
mystery preparations whose aim it appeared was to hide
the fact that cauliflower was their featured ingredient.

The Vina Cerron Chardonnay Remordimento 17 (La Mancha)
was exceptionally smoky and oaky, in a good, food-
friendly way. Remordimento means "remorse," but
there's nothing sad about this wine.

Pike-perch with pea puree and lemon was excellent, though
the fish, firm enough already, was cooked a tad more than
I would have preferred. The combination of freshwater fish
and peas reminded me of a similar dish I'd had maybe
twenty years ago at Rover's; it was news then but is not
now, not that everything has to be.

The Leon Boesch Pinot Gris Clos Zwingel 14 (Alsace) added
an additional touch of green, and I suppose that supplement
rather than complement was the order of the dish.

Clover ice with pear and ricotta was not particularly
interesting, the clover being pleasant floral but nothing
more. It's another dish that's like crying out for that
star but not quite making it.

Angerhof-Tschida Muscat Ottonel Auslese 15 (Burgenland) -
a pleasant but low-everything wine, citrus fruit and
a bit of sweetness, well balanced with acid, not much
going for it other than amiability and not overpowering
the not-too-sweet dessert.

A most pleasant meal with good company, but I kept
thinking No star for you!

After this protracted meal I toddled back to the Hampton,
where Lilli was sound asleep.
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